Colour Theory:

The Color Wheel

The color wheel

The color wheel is designed so that virtually any colors you pick from it will look good together.

Traditionally, there are a number of color combinations that are considered especially pleasing. These are calledcolor harmonies or color chords and they consist of two or more colors with a fixed relation in the color wheel.

Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Colors

In the RYB (or subtractive) color model, the primary colors are red, yellow and blue.

The three secondary colors(green, orange and purple) are created by mixing two primary colors.

Another six tertiary colors are created by mixing primary and secondary colors.

Warm and cool colors

The color circle can be divided into warm and cool colors.

Warm colors are vivid and energetic, and tend to advance in space.

Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression.

White, black and gray are considered to be neutral.

Tints, Shades, and Tones

These terms are often used incorrectly, although they describe fairly simple color concepts. If a color is made lighter by adding white, the result is called a tint. If black is added, the darker version is called a shade. And if gray is added, the result is a differenttone.

Tints - adding white to a pure hue:

Shades - adding black to a pure hue:

Tones - adding gray to a pure hue:

Color Harmonies

- basic techniques for creating color schemes

Below are shown the basic color chords based on thecolor wheel.

	Complementary color scheme Colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel are considered to be complementary colors (example: red and green). The high contrast of complementary colors creates a vibrant look especially when used at full saturation. This color scheme must be managed well so it is not jarring. Complementary color schemes are tricky to use in large doses, but work well when you want something to stand out. Complementary colors are really bad for text.
	Analogous color scheme Analogous color schemes use colors that are next to each other on the color wheel. They usually match well and create serene and comfortable designs. Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye. Make sure you have enough contrast when choosing an analogous color scheme. Choose one color to dominate, a second to support. The third color is used (along with black, white or gray) as an accent.
	Triadic color scheme A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel. Triadic color schemes tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or unsaturated versions of your hues. To use a triadic harmony successfully, the colors should be carefully balanced - let one color dominate and use the two others for accent.
	Split-Complementary color scheme The split-complementary color scheme is a variation of the complementary color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its complement. This color scheme has the same strong visual contrast as the complementary color scheme, but has less tension. The split-complimentary color scheme is often a good choice for beginners, because it is difficult to mess up.
	Rectangle (tetradic) color scheme The rectangle or tetradic color scheme uses four colors arranged into two complementary pairs. This rich color scheme offers plenty of possibilities for variation. Tetradic color schemes works best if you let one color be dominant. You should also pay attention to the balance between warm and cool colors in your design.
	Square color scheme The square color scheme is similar to the rectangle, but with all four colors spaced evenly around the color circle. Square color schemes works best if you let one color be dominant. You should also pay attention to the balance between warm and cool colors in your design.

Flock and Foil:

My first attempt at Flock came out quite well, although there

must have been a few gaps in

the screen as the flock has come out in place where i didn't want it. My first

attempt was done on card and the colour of the flock wasn't as nice as i had thought it was when i fist chose it.

I feel the foil came out a lot better then the flock and gave a nicer effect. This was my first attem

pt at foil and it was do

ne on card.

This is the second attempt i did at Flock but this time i did it on kaliko material which i think gave a nicer effect compared to on card as the lines are thinner giving the l

ogo a more feathery effect.

My second attempt at foil on the kaliko material didn't come ou

t as well as i thought it would compared to the card i think this might of been my fault for maybe putting one to many pulls of glue through the screen, making it blotchy in areas and the lines slightly thicker.

Drypoint:

This was my first attempt at drypoint, im not sure why it didn't work as i followed the process. you can see the faint pattern of my logo.

This drypoint attempt didn't work either, but when pressing my paper against the etching, it came out, so maybe i just didn't have enough ink on it. I did about 6 attempts but these were the only 2 that came out.